Greystoke Mahale is one of Africa's iconic camps and with good reason. It's about as far off the map as you can get while traveling in East Africa. This remote hideaway can only be reached by air and then by boat. No roads, cellphones or other intrusion interrupts this superlative experience. Facing the gin clear Lake Tanganyika and backed up by forested mountains, there are few places that make such an impact on arrival. And this is where you come to trek deep into the forests in search of characterful members of one of the largest populations of wild chimpanzees in the world. This is an always memorable, often intensely moving and exciting experience.

Greystoke Mahale is reached via Nomad's scheduled charter flight on Mondays and Thursdays. The plane departs Arusha, makes a stop on inducement in the Serengeti, and a relief stop in Tabora before dropping off/picking up in Chada Katavi and on to Mahale. It's approximately a 41/2 hour flight followed by a 90min boat trip. It's important for people to be in reasonably good shape as trekking can be demanding.

Chimp trekking, the cleanest hippos you'll ever see, other primates, good bird viewing.

Chimp trekking, sundowners, birding/game viewing by wooden dhow, deep water swims far out in the lake, kayaking, relaxing.

The six double bandas are on the edge of the forest, looking out over the lake with the mountains right behind. All rooms look out over the beach and the lake beyond. The Bandas are all open-fronted, with heavy canvas curtains you can pull across if you choose. Made of old dhow wood, not one is the same, but all have a dressing room behind and then a short boardwalk to the bathroom with flush toilet, strong showers and hot and cold water on demand. There's a "chill-out" deck upstairs, accessible by a rather clever canoe-ladder around the side of the banda. This is the place to while away a long afternoon with a glass of wine and a good book.

Our dry season in Mahale starts in June, when the long rains have stopped, and goes through to October. At this time of year the temperatures increase and the skies are quite hazy, the lake has never been more appealing for a cooling dip. As the dry season progresses, the chimps are more usually found in the lower slopes due to their favourite fruits being found lower down. Mahale's green season runs from November through to March and this time of year is a photographers dream; the haze often prevalent through the dry season is washed away. The forest offers varied viewing, although the forest is at its best, full of the colour of wildflowers, birds and butterflies. The lake is clearest in these months with incredible views of the Congo in the distance.

3-4 nights

From $760pppn sharing

We are delighted to welcome children of 8 and over at Greystoke Mahale. However, Tanapa regulations restrict children under 12 from viewing the chimpanzees.